WSM Top Vent Baffle

On a windy day with the Weber smokey mountain, I needed a baffle for
the top vent, and I needed it quick. Here's what I did.

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It was a windy day in the big city... I was going to do my signature beef ribs but was concerned about the wind. I set up some plywood sheets to baffle to lower vents, but the top vent was the most concern to me - a good crisp wind would probably evacuate the heat from the lid area in short order - that's where all the cooking happens.

 

True, I could move the ribs to the lower grate to offset this problem, but I'm too tall and lazy to do all the bending and stooping for that. I needed a baffle for the top vent, and I didn't have time to go through the usual engineering design cycle that I obsessively put myself through for such things. I needed something now! - a baffle - something that would let the air come out the vent while preventing the wind from blowing into the lid where all the cooking gets done.

 

Here's what I did - I scrounged around the garage and found one of those mid sized coffee cans - the approx 12 oz of coffee grind size. It was storing some hardware which I had to find a new home for, but the need was urgent. The open end of this size can would fit over the vent and stay there quite nicely.

 

The other end of the can was still closed since this can was used for storage. My first instinct was to put the can back in the can opener to remove the bottom, and I'd wind up with just a tube. But a coffee can cut into a tube would be too flimsy to last for it's next use without getting squashed. I wanted to cut a hole in the bottom only as large as I needed to vent sufficiently.

 

I calculated area of the top vent openings - 3 holes at 3/4 of an inch diameter equals 0.44 per hole, or a total venting area of 1.32 inches wide open. I would need to cut an opening in the bottom of the can to provide at least 1.32 inches of area for ventilation.

 

The manufacturer of the can gracious enough to make this can with several concentric circular ridges in the bottom of the can for strength. The first one was at 2 inches diameter which gives 3.14 inches of ventilation area - well above the minimum needed and enough material left behind to keep the can strong. I took some old kitchen sheers that had been retired to the garage and nibbled out the hole roughly to this 2 inch diameter ridge circle. Next came the Dremel tool with a grinding bit to smooth out the burrs and even out the roundness of the hole to look more professionally machined.

 

Now I have a @ 12 oz can open on one end, and a 2 inch hole on the other. I would set the open end of the can over the vent and let the hot air come out the 2 inch hole. I had plenty of options at this point to use as a baffle material - I could leave the can empty, which would probably have achieved 80% of the benefit, but I'm not about to leave 20% on the table.

 

A paper towel over the hole would allow air to freely exit the vent, and would probably stop the wind from getting in - a rubber band could easily hold the paper towel in place. A sheet of foam or any number of other materials would suffice as well. For some reason, I opted to ball up 4 or 5 foil balls to put inside the can to baffle any wind entering while allowing hot air to escape.

 

The cook is going on right now. So far so good - Here's some pictures:

 

 

 

 

 

Copyright(c)2007, Scott Hares, All Rights Reserved